Not long ago, talk of whisky would have brought to mind the peaty, smoky scents of scotch, the smooth, golden notes of Irish whiskey, or, at a push, the honeyed vanilla and oak of American bourbon.
These days, however, you’re as likely to hear whisky lovers rhapsodise over the Japanese version of the drink – and for good reason. The historic distilleries of the east Asian nation are having a real moment, eclipsing sake on many drinks menus as the islands’ traditional tipple of choice.
The global Japanese whisky market size is expected to reach $1.1 billion (£830m) by 2025, according to a report from Grand View Research, partly driven by rising interest in not only the UK but also the US, Germany, India and China.
In the depths of winter, we could all do with a golden glass of what George Bernard Shaw called “liquid sunshine”, and this dazzling array from the land of the rising sun is sure to bring some much-needed light and warmth to the dark evenings.
How we tested
Taste and drinking experience were the biggest factors. We took into account the scent, the strength of the initial alcohol hit, the sweetness and smokiness, the tingle of the first taste, any floral notes or other major flavours, and finally the aftertaste mouth-feel, and post-sip warmth.
Overall, we wanted it to be a pleasure to drink; indulgent enough to satisfy, and moreish enough that we kept going back for another sip.
Price also came into it. When it comes to alcohol, sometimes “the best” means simply the bottles that cost the most – indeed, there are some prized varieties that cost anywhere from £200 to more than £1,000. But for the purposes of this list, we chose bottles that offered a still-excellent product for a reasonable, more accessible price.
Design wasn’t a major decider – simply because many Japanese whisky bottles look fairly similar, with traditional script and muted colours – although points were awarded for noticeable flair or originality, or packaging that went the extra mile.
Hatozaki Japanese blended whisky
Named after the Hatozaki lighthouse (Japan’s oldest), this whisky certainly shone like a beacon among our selection. The rounded, tapered bottle with traditional script on its label looks elegant before you even open the top, and the liquid inside smells like lemon cheesecake (no, really). From the Kaikyo distillery in Akashi City, Hyogo, this blend is sweet, light and fruity, recalling spring days and warm evenings. It’s moreish and biscuity, but spicy enough to make a real impact. Excellent value for money too.
Drinks by the Dram Japanese whisky tasting set
Obviously, as a tasting set, this doesn’t technically qualify as a single whisky. Yet, it’s an ingenious place to start if you’re looking for a sure-to-please gift for a whisky lover, or want to learn more about Japanese blends in one easy swoop. The neat box contains five 30ml samples of award-winning varieties, including the classic Nikka days (light and lemony, with apple and shortbread notes), Nikka super rare old (rich and warm, with toffee and pear) and the Mars maltage “cosmo” (fresh and tangy, with vanilla and citrus). The tasting notes are an excellent, helpful addition for anyone looking to finetune their senses and get a feel for a high-end array of solid Japanese varieties.
Nikka Miyagikyo single malt
From the Miyagikyo distillery in the Miyagi prefecture, Tōhoku, under the classic Nikka brand, this single malt is known as an “entry-level” whisky, that nonetheless packs a peppery punch. We found it to have a light scent with a hint of honey, cinnamon and apple, which gave way to a smoky, floral flavour with a surprisingly powerful and warming gingery aftertaste and a fresh, fruity finish. The deep amber bottle adds a subtle sophistication that nods to the single malt’s maturation in ex-sherry casks, but the liquid itself is delicate enough to please even the newest of whisky drinkers, as well as a more seasoned pro.
Ichiro’s Malt double distilleries
This whisky’s quirky name belies the deep history of its heritage. One half hails from the Chichibu distillery, which was built in 2007 by Japanese whisky “rockstar” Ichiro Akuto. The other comes from the nearby, now-closed but legendary Hanyu distillery, founded by the Akuto family in the 1600s (yes, a colossal 400 years ago). With a noticeable smoky scent and initial sweetness, the blend results in a supremely drinkable whisky that would work particularly well as a special evening treat, with a super-smooth mouthfeel and pleasing hints of caramel and hazelnut on the finish.
House of Suntory Chita Distiller’s reserve single grain Japanese whisky
A new release for this year, this single-grain whisky is aged in wine and Spanish oak as well as American white oak casks, which explains this drink’s mild flavour and luxurious golden colour. A classic bottle design gives way to a surprisingly smoky scent, which reminded us of toffee apples eaten while huddled around a November bonfire. With a smooth mouthfeel and a warm aftertaste that lingers with a touch of bitter lemon zest, this single grain is noticeably less sweet than other varieties we tested, giving it sophisticated appeal for those who prefer a sharper, sleeker drink.
Suntory the Hakushu single malt distiller’s reserve
Bottled in impressive, imposing packaging with deep green hues designed to (we like to think) recall the forests surrounding the Hakashu distillery in the southern Japanese Alps, this whisky from famous brand Suntory does not disappoint. Forest pine trees can almost be found in the flavour, which is fresh and minty, light on the palate and uplifting to taste. Smoke lingers like a bonfire trail in autumn, and we felt as though we’d taken a deep lungful of mountain air on a bracing hike (without the pesky detail of actually having to leave the living room). It’s also available at a very fair price for such a memorable single malt.
